Well as you can tell from a previous post I was installing new fuel injectors and a fuel pump. All went well and it was time for a test drive. I had started the car after I finished the other day so most of the air was out of the fuel lines. Now I needed to drive around and make sure all was well. I started off driving in my neighborhood and that went just fine. So I drove farther away and still all was good. Next I tried a WOT (wide open throttle) punch and there was the issue, b-o-g (being over gassed). I was able to dump so much fuel into the engine that the factory pseudo dual/single exhaust and factory tune could not handle the additional flow. I knew this would happen but had to test for myself.

I contacted Deatschwerks to make sure my theory was correct and they were surprised the car was even drivable. So I have arranged to have my ECU (Electronic Control Unit, err the brains of the car) sent in for reprogramming by a company called Power Axel. While that is taking place I have acquired an impact wrench to remove the factory exhaust manifolds and pipes. Then I will install my Power Axel headers and ARK Performance GRIP Dual Exhaust. Well off to work and take more pictures.

Well Kim and I headed over to the autocross race this past weekend and had a good time. The weather was warm at first and then the breeze picked up and clouds made it even nicer. I got some good pictures

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We hope you enjoyed them, though being there is more fun.

Well I finally got the necessary parts in to give Genny her upgrade. Thanks to a company called Deatschwerks I was able to get 600cc fuel injectors and a fuel pump 9-301 here are some of the highlights and how to.

Intake removal Pic. 1

1) First remove the top vacuum line
2) The next 2 lines contain antifreeze, this is used to warm the throttle body during colder days. Very little comes out as long as your car has been sitting for at least a half day.
3) The bottom right of the picture contains a bolt that holds the intake in place.

Intake removal Pic. 2

1) On the back of the intake there is another hose to remove. To the right of that hose is the lines we removed in step 1.

Intake removal Pic. 3

1) Remove the hose from your intake, though I have an aftermarket intake on, the location should be in the same place.
2) Behind it is another hose to be removed
3) To the right of the second hose being removed if a plug that will need to be pinched and removed.

Intake removal Pic. 4

Another picture of the plug to be removed from the previous step.

Intake removal Pic. 5

1) Remove this nut from the front corner stud of the intake.
2) On the far right is the one bolt that holds the valve cover on and braces the wires across the engine.

Intake removal Pic. 6

Another pic of the both in the valve cover.

Intake removal Pic. 7

1) Remove the long bolts from the top of the intake.
2) Remove the front bolt from the intake.
3) remove the next 2 bolts holding the fuel rail, there will be 2 bolts below the fuel rail that will also need to be removed.
4) Remove the other bolt on the opposite corner of the intake.
5) There is another nut to be removed from the stud on the back of the intake. (not shown in picture)

The bottom 2 circles are showing where the valve cover attaches to the motor.

Intake removal Pic. 8

Starting from the top.
1) Remove 2 10mm bolts from fuel rail entrance head.
2) Remove retaining bolts from fuel rails.

Sorry I do not have photos of the rest but I will describe it as best as I can.

1) Pull the fuel rail entrance head back towards the firewall. It’s a metal fuel line and has very little give.
2) Now on my 2010 3.8L there are white locking clips holding the connections to the fuel injectors. Slide the white clip up and wiggle the connector off.
3) Now will remove the whole fuel rail assembly at the same time. Slowly wiggle while pulling up, you may have to pull up on various parts of the rail to get it loose.
4) Now that you have the fuel rails out there will be some gas that will come out. A small bucket will suffice as there is not a whole lot in the rails.
5) You will need some needle nose pliers, this will remove the metal clips holding the injector to the rail. These are pulled toward the center area between the rails. They are fairly durable but should not need a lot of force.
6) Once the injectors are out grab the new ones. Hopefully they can with some sort of lubrication, but if not some clean motor oil will work as well.
7) Lubricate the O ring closest to the electrical connector and push it in the fuel rail and replace the metal restraining clip.

Fuel Pump and Filter Assembly

Fuel Pump removal Pic. 1

This is the fuel pump and filter assembly. It is located under the back seat on the drivers side. There is a plate held in by 8 screws.

Thanks to Kim I was able to finish this successfully.

Well Genny and I have taken some road trips to see various things. One place we went to was Clarksville, Mo, most noted for their skylift to an old western town.

I went here a few times as a kid and once with some friends from high school as they had never heard of it. I can’t ever remember this being a busy place, but the ride to the top and the rewarding view are worth it.

Well as some of you might know I bought a new to me, car in 2010, it’s a 2010 Hyundai Genesis 3.8L Track. It’s Karussell White with black leather interior.

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